So, every year since '99, the last time I went to the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, I commence a bittersweet period of grieving in early February. Thats when the festival organizers announce the line-ups for the musicians who'll play sometime during the 7 day event in April/May.
I see the list when it comes out, and I just want to cry. It's always that I havn't figured out getting the money together for travel or getting the time free. But every year, I dream about going, imagine being there barefoot Zydecoing, soaking in the deliciously heavy spring air in the Crescent, indifferent to whether I'll go next to hear, like, Oumou Sangare at the Congo Square stage, or the New Orleans Klezmer All-Stars at the blues stage, or Snooks Eaglin, or Eddie Bo, or Irma Thomas, or the Wild Tchoupatoulis.
Today, here at the Greenline Cafe, Amy's working on her thesis, while I'm trying to read some acupuncture cases, but am being distracted by the New York Times. And, there it is: the List, along with an article about how although there will be some national acts this year, New Orleans local music will be even more emphasized than usual. I start seeking commiseration from Amy about how when I finally put a little money down this week on the new bike I need, I'll be closing the door on any chance of going to this year's extra miraculous, post-Katrina Jazz Fest. How I want to be there, and what it will represent.
What WILL it represent? Who's performances will transcend this year, and transcend what; and to where? Will the festival, like a pan-hemisperic May Day, help lead another few hundred thousand people into the misbehaving second line of the city's never ending funeral march and never ending re-birth? Will people parade themselves into various trances just above the late spring fairgrounds?
Early February in Philly, I'm noticing. So different than early May in New Orleans. Struggling to create some community here in the socially cold and busy busy Protestant Northeast, and not even with the benefit of our lifetimes of connections made back in Boston. At the end of a day here, Amy and I are pleased to just see each other in one piece, returning on our bikes and having once again cheated the deathly pace and violent indifference of the workday streets and sidewalks. We search the memory of our days, a little desparate to report some warm connection with a stranger, an honest interaction with any person who's not middle class and white. The coffeeshop here has served as our church social, a place where there's a chance of a little softening of civic potential or creative collaboration. But, mostly, we miss it, like everyone, in our everyday lives, in the every moment.
We're 40 and 35 years of age, the first generation where two youngest children could be "making a decision" at this point in our lives about whether to have children or not. And we're looking at that decision as U.S.-ers, 7 years into a century presided over thus far in its entirity by a mob of the richest rich inheritors using the playbook of fascists, terrorists, supremicists, apocolyptic survivalists; spreading death and hatred and talking only of freedom in order to sustain their stranglehold on the world's resources.
I'm old enough to notice that while I can despise our legacies of slavery and genocide and ecological destruction, I can still love the People of the U.S. for having fought and continuing to fight against all this to build lives of love and liberation and stewardship of the earth and celebration of human creativity, and for our own bodies and families and neighborhoods and languages and traditions.
I spend ALOT of time LONGING to live among fellow Americans and fellow world citizens who are ready to celebrate the security and vitality of our combined and clashing identities and languages and music and movements. What a relief it is for any of us to spend time inside this kind of conversation, trading the chokehold of the ultimate ultra-racist bogey-man story we're whipped with every day for the hard questions of historical responsibility and the even harder questions of just how Good we actually all are, and could be. Let's dance, PLEASE, like they do in New Orleans, to all the brilliant and fierce, the radical and creolified beats and melodies, all the astoundingly perfect little moments of music where god-magic-blood-sound-bone get compressed into a string of notes by today's dedicated sons and daughters of thousand year Caribbean kings and queens, the umpteenth generation shamans of devotion, exorcism, necromancy, re-birth, elation. Songs and rituals written and practiced in the uncompromised voices of who everyone really is, and with all the subtle inflections of who we'll continue to become.
I want to be There, taking nothing for granted.
Allen Toussaint , I swear, could dance the thousands hundreds of years back into the illuminating truth of the south, where everyone will shake hands with themselves before sighing and continuing to two-step. I swear there'll be others I don't know yet who'll have everyone dancing hundreds of years into a very bright and funky looking future.
So, Amy lets me cry. Then she writes something down on a little piece of paper, and folds it up like an envelope, hands it to me smiling. It says "I'm buying you a plane ticket to New Orleans for your birthday."
I'm going. I'm on fire, and my excitement hasn't stopped since then, almost two months ago. But, there's the voices, the lies, that I'm wrong, or the questions about how could I possibly be welcome after what we continue to do to New Orleans.